Did You Know…The Residential Multifamily Energy Efficiency Rebate Program offers property owners and managers incentives on a broad list of energy efficiency improvements in lighting, HVAC, insulation and window categories. These improvements are to be used to retrofit existing multifamily properties of two or more units.

How It Works
The rebate application for this program will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis. Program is effective until December 31, 2011, or until funding is exhausted, or until the program is suspended by the California Public Utilities Commission, whichever occurs first. This program may be modified or terminated without prior notice.

Please call (800) 736-4777 for additional program information and details.

Under California law, models of certain types of appliances, for example, refrigerators, dishwashers and clothes washers etc., must be certified to the California Energy Commission before being sold or offered for sale in the state. The Energy Commission maintains a database of those appliances, found at the following link: http://www.appliances.energy.ca.gov. Before purchasing this type of appliance, please consult the Energy Commission’s database to see if the particular model of the appliance you want to buy is in the database. Not all products listed in this database are eligible for utility rebates as they do not all meet the higher energy performance requirements of the utility programs. Please refer to Southern California Edison rebate applications to find energy saving products eligible for rebate.

One Simple Survey. Lots Of Serious Savings.
This 15-minute survey puts the power back in your hands by giving you helpful energy-saving tips that will also help the environment. Since the questions are about your household energy usage, the tips are tailored especially for you to maximize your savings. And the less energy you use, the better it is for the environment.

Excerpt from Southern California Edison
https://websafe.kemainc.com/scescg/gatewaysce.asp


” …today’s American kitchen — no longer a place to simply cook and eat, it’s now the “real” living room — a place for living, working and entertaining.

Given the current recession, it’s no surprise that consumers are saving rather than spending. And when they do spend, they’re doing so from cash on hand; rather than credit,” said Jack Suvak, senior director of research and insights, Moen. “This change in spending behavior has had a dramatic impact on remodeling projects. Most homeowners are choosing to perform ‘room lifts’ — small updates to personalize a room — rather than undertake major remodels.

…Plus, homeowners are choosing to personalize renovations to fit their needs, rather than update a room for the next family that will be living in the house. In the kitchen, this might include everything from creating solutions that better integrate the management of electronic devices…to creating ‘kid level’ storage areas…to adding safety features for aging boomers.”

Except from: MOEN… New Research Finds Homeowners are Renovating to Create “Live-In Value;” Rather than to Sell – April 26, 2011

Here’s a Handyman Tip: Whether you Do-it-Yourself or decide to hire a professional handyman, carpenter, plumber, electrician, painter, tile installer or general contractor…

Create a Plan and a Realistic Budget.

The plan should be influenced by your lifestyle and your personal style (Look at images in publications for ideas until you have a heartfelt “yes. that’s it!”) Creating a realistic budget does not necessarily mean sacrifice… often it means being a smart shopper. ( Shop sales in stores in person or online as well a internet sites such as ebay.com, Amazon.com, lowes.com, homedepot.com and more).

If you plan to Do-it-Yourself ( DIY) be honest with yourself about your skills and do what you can and get help with the rest.


With so many houses on the market, how do you capture a prospective buyers attention in a manner that is immediate and lasting?

Stage your home in a manner that reveals it’s most appealing features for a first impression that allows prospective buyers to imagine “making it their own”. Sometimes a buyer will just “know” they have to have this house and not want to take a chance on loosing it to another buyer. But with so many homes choose from, it makes sense to find as many ways as you can to make your house memorable.

How do you do that?

1. Look around and choose your homes best features and be sure they are presented in a clean, uncluttered, appealing manner. First impressions usually start at the curb, so take an objective look and correct and enhance your properties appeal.

2. Open your front door, pause, and take a good look around as if you have never seen this home before. If you do not see an immaculately clean, uncluttered, spacious, beautifully lit, color neutral environment, with appealing furniture and window treatments, create a detailed to-do list and get busy.

3. Kitchens are a big selling feature. There is a lot you can do to enhance your kitchen to create a great first and lasting impression. Clean, polish, shine and de-clutter. Countertops should have only a few items on them enhanced by an accent of color from a fruit bowl or flowers. Repair or replace countertops as needed. Organize the inside of your cabinets – box what you are not using. Investing in painting if walls and cabinets that are worn and tired looking will help you sell faster and put money in your pocket. Consider replacing the floor if it is very worn or torn. Upgrading faucets can make a kitchen feel new and updated with just a modest outlay of money.

4. Bathrooms are easy to enhance. Repair tile and grout. Make sure your sink, bath, shower doors and toilets are unbroken, immaculate and shinning. If beyond repair … replace. Paint if tired and old looking. Consider upgrading faucets, lighting and mirror as needed. Accessorize with fresh towels, a picture, a soap dish, and perhaps a small dried or silk flower arrangement on the countertop.

5. Doors and windows should all be operable, clean and fresh looking.

6. For all other rooms approach them as suggested in #1 above. Wash walls so they are clean or paint. Be sure to use NO VOC paint that is better to your health, the the health of future owners, and does not create noxious unpleasant oder.

7. De-clutter and de-personalize every room, closet, storage space and garage. This is a wonderful opportunity to lighten your load. Keep only that which you love, has value and is essential to you life. Donate to a charity of your choice. Find your local recycling center for the rest – earth911.com makes this easy.

Do-it-Yourself and/or get professional help.

See YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ec7QCZAxidY


Video by: New Owens Corning EcoTouch™ PINK™ FIBERGLAS® Insulation with PureFiber™ Technolgy helps you save money and energy while helping save the planet. Using sustainable manufacturing processes this new EcoTouch™ PINK™ FIBERGLAS® Insulation is made with natural* materials and a formaldehyde-free formulation delivering peace of mind. And it has a minimum of 70%** recycled content, the highest in the industry. – http://insulation.owenscorning.ca/ecotouch/ Excerpt from YouTube

Tips from Energy Star: Below Excerpt From:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=diy.diy_getting_started

Sealing and Insulating are often the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient — and you can do it yourself with guidance from ENERGY STAR.

Attic air sealing and adding insulation are do-it-yourself projects if your attic is accessible and not too difficult to move around in. The projects recommended in this guide can usually be completed in a day or two and will provide benefits for years to come. If upon inspection of your attic you find any of the conditions listed to the left, we recommend you consider hiring a contractor to correct these problems before proceeding.

Wet or damp insulation indicating a leaky roof
Moldy or rotted attic rafters or floor joists indicating moisture problems
Kitchen, bathroom, and clothes dryer vents that exhaust moist air directly into the attic space instead of outdoors
A history of ice dams in the winter (an indication of serious air leaks)
Little or no attic ventilation
Knob and tube wiring (pre-1930), which can be a fire hazard when in contact with insulation
If you have many unsealed and uninsulated recessed “can” lights, special care must be taken when insulating around these fixtures

Have a Plan in Place
The key to any successful home improvement project is adequate planning. Gather all your tools and supplies before you begin to minimize trips in and out of the attic. Be sure that the work area is well-lit by using a drop light, and keep a flashlight handy.

Prepare to Get Dirty
The entire process of sealing your attic will be made easier if you take the time and effort to wear the right gear. Wear knee pads to help prevent pain associated with crawling on attic joists. Additionally, a lightweight disposable coverall, gloves, and hat can keep itchy and irritating insulation off your skin.

Above All — Be Safe
Take precautions to avoid a dangerous working environment in the attic. During hot weather start working early, as attics heat up as the day moves on. Drink plenty of water and use an OSHA-approved particulate respirator or double-strap dust mask to prevent inhalation of hazardous substances. Also remember to watch your step. Walk on joists or truss chords, not exposed ceiling drywall or insulation. In addition, watch out for sharp nails sticking through the roof deck!

Materials Checklist for Sealing Attic Air Leaks
Batt or roll of unfaced fiberglass insulation and large garbage bags (for stuffing open stud cavities behind kneewalls and in dropped soffits)
Roll of reflective foil insulation or other blocking material such as drywall or pieces of rigid foam insulation to cover soffits, open walls, and larger holes
Silicone or acrylic latex caulk & caulk gun for sealing small holes (1/4 inch or less)
Several cans of expanding spray foam insulation for filling larger gaps (1/4 inch to 3 inches) Special high-temperature (heat-resistant) caulk to seal around flues and chimneys
Roll of 14-inch wide aluminum flashing to keep insulation away from the flue pipe
Retractable utility knife and sheet metal scissors
Tape measure and staple gun (or hammer and nails) to hold covering materials in place
Safety glasses, gloves, and dust mask (for insulation work as well)
Flashlight or portable safety light
Boards to walk on, if needed
Large bucket to haul materials


In these challenging economic times many more homeowners are finding themselves needing to save money on home improvements. Many homeowners succeed and save, many say they did not know what they were getting themselves into.

Whether to Do-it-Yourself is actually a simple question to answer if you start with honest self inquiry.

Am I really handy with repairs and decorating? Do I have the time? Do I have the skills to do a professional job? Is this going to be too time intensive relative to what I can earn doing my own work. Is this going to be fun or a drudge. Is DIY really going to save me money in the end.

Being honest at this stage will save you money and frustration. Once you have your answer – which is not going to be a black or white one – then move into planning, educating yourself, budgeting, staging, and purchasing materials.

Once you get to this point in your thinking an planning most homeowners realize that they cannot do it all.  It at this point you take another moment to reflect and plan thoughtfully. Can you do it all or do you need some help. If you decide you need some help take the time to make good decisions about how much and from whom. Do you need a handyman, a general contractor, or a painter to get you project done right and on time.

So, if you are going to do it yourself, the main project you want to begin with is painting. This is a great place to do a diy project if you have the time and patience. Do yo have experience painting. If not find a good “how-to” blog or website. Imagine yourself doing what is being suggested. Are you excited.? Concerned?

The answer often depends on what needs painting. The outside of a house, or hard to reach places, has a lot more challenges than painting a bath or a key color wall in a room.

Do you know about painting products and supplies? If not “read” and learn.

Tip: Always use the best quality rollers (appropriate to pain and task), brushes, special repair tools and paint products.

Tip: Use the best quality paint. I recommend using NO VOC paint products that allow you to work without toxicity to yourself and your family. Choose a high quality product, pay a little more, and your paint will cover better, go on more smoothly, take less time to apply, clean up faster and last longer.

Good prep is key to a professional looking job. Remember that you need to: prepare walls; windows and doors; protect floors; fixtures; and cover furniture. You will need to clean, fix cracks, dings, holes, baseboards, door frames etc. as needed.

If you are already tired or concerned just reading this you have two choices: 1) be courageous and just do it, or 2) save yourself time. money and stress and get a pro to do it for you.

Video Excerpt from YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIv9m16Wz4k


events montage

Our actions impact the environment. Today we realize that each thing we do can help or hurt our planet in many ways. We all need to take ownership of environmental protection. EPA has tools to help you learn and understand the issues and help you reduce your environmental footprint. Learn more at EPA’s Sustainability site.

At Home and In the GarDen

Tips for home safety, avoiding potential risks, and preventing pollution by recycling and conserving water and energy.

Excerpt from:

http://www.epa.gov/gateway/learn/greenliving.html

http://www.epa.gov/earthday/events.htm

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New Southern California Lush – Water saving garden ideas  from bewaterwise.com that conserves our precious California water resources and saves you money each month.

                                                                                                                                                                                             Increase the Value of Your Home – Staying or Staging

Garden Gallery Ideas:

1. Beautify and add curb appeal with stunning drought resistant plants

2. Have a Landscape Plan that increases the beauty and value of your home 

3. If Staging for Sale – Your homes curb appeal can sells it quickly at a top price.

http://www.bewaterwise.com/Gardensoft/garden_types.aspx?listType=types

Step 1: Select a Theme

The successful heritage garden plan starts with a theme that unites the garden, the style of the home, the weather and the functional uses of the garden. These planning steps apply to a new home or a home with an existing garden. A theme utilizes a central component, such as a specimen tree(s), groupings of similar plants, compatible colors, and recurring groups of plants and/or plants that are found together in nature.

  • The specimen tree theme
  • The dominant plant theme
  • Compatible colors (flower)
  • Recurring plant group theme
  • Natural plant grouping theme

The garden can also be planned according to functional uses that are desired, including:

  • Wildlife garden
  • Edible garden plants
  • Cut flower garden
  • Fragrant garden
  • Shade garden
Step 2: Evaluate Your Site.Every successful garden needs a thoughtful site evaluation. The following list will help you get started:
What type of soil does the site have (sandy, loam, clay loam, clay)? The soil type will determine (1) how to prepare the soil for planting, (2) how to water the garden, (3) what type of plants are best suited to the site.

  • Where is the sun and shade around the site? How does it change throughout the year? This will determine the plants best suited for specific areas of the garden.
  • What about the climate of your location? It will influence your plant selection. Group plants according to climate zone preference.
Step 3: Ask Yourself Some Questions

  • What do you like the most in your garden?
  • What do you like the least in your garden?
  • How do you want to use your garden?
Step 4: Put It On Paper

You don’t need to be an artist to do a simple sketch of your home lot – and it is a tool that will really help you visualize what should go where in the garden. This step also allows you to test your ideas on others, say at the garden center, family members, etc.)

  • Divide the yard into different areas:
  • Sun areas – Good for flowers, vegetables, fruit trees, and dries out more quickly
  • Shade areas – Limits the types of plants to choose from, dries out slowly and stays wet longer
  • Screening for privacy – need upright plants
  • Shading windows or hot spots – determine if deciduous trees (trees that loose their leaves each winter and allow the winter sun to penetrate) or if evergreen trees fit better
  • Lay out areas for hardscapes (patios, decks, planters, walkways)
  • Assure easy access  make moving around the garden, to BBQ or storage area easy
Step 5: Placing Plants: Where and Why?

Placing Trees:

  • Trees are the most dominant plant in the garden
  • Trees grow and deliver shade, which makes growing many plants beneath trees difficult…plan for garden changes as trees bring shade
  • Trees have deep roots and need infrequent, deep watering. Don’t place trees in turf that wants water on a regular basis.
  • Keep trees away from the house foundation, sidewalks, walls and hardscape in general. Why? Tree roots are famous for lifting and cracking hardscapes and clogging sewer lines. Choose tree locations first and with care.

Placing Turf Grass:

  • Plant turf where it will be used for playing. Otherwise, turf is better to do without because it takes weekly labor time and is the highest water using plant in our climate.
  • Avoid placing turf under trees. Why? Trees want less water. Tree roots will come to the surface when planted in turf (raising the risk of blowing down in high winds), and trees shade turf when most turf wants full sun.
  • Use turf in the back yard where it is most likely to be used for recreation.
  • If you have existing turf areas and don’t use it for recreation, consider native and other low water use, lower maintenance plants.

Placing Shrubs (native plants, roses, flowering plants, hedges, perennials, annuals): General Rules…

  • Place the plant(s) in the proper “exposure” (sun, shade, filtered sun)
  • Place the plant(s) in similar water use groupings (low/drought, medium and high)
  • Place plants in areas that are large enough for their full growth habits
  • Place plants with compatible flower colors
  • Place plants in locations where they won’t need to be pruned to “fit” or be kept from obstructing views
  • Read text accompanying plant images in this CD and other sources (see Resource section) for the height and spread of the plant, colors, preferred sun exposures and soil types, etc.
  • Place plants so they can grow naturally (without pruning to keep them in a certain space so they don’t grow into each other)
  • Place plants in groupings of the same plants (mass plantings of the same plant) for dramatic affect
  • Place flowering plants, such as bougainvillea, etc. in the full sun (to promote flowering)
  • Place native plants in dry or low water use areas or where there is no irrigation system (though it will take some water for the first yearfor them to establish their root systems)
  • Place native plants on separate irrigation system zones (valves or stations) so they are not over-watered, which is the primary reason native plants die
  • Place annuals in areas of higher water application
Step 6: Planning the Irrigation System

  • Plan for separate valves (zones or stations) for each different area in the garden (this will increase the number of valves, zones or stations, but it will help you to save plants from over watering, save on home damage from consistently wet soils, and increase your ability to manage the landscape efficiently)
  • Plan for separate valves for sun areas, shade areas and filtered sun areas
  • Plan for spray on groundcover and turf areas
  • Plan for low-volume spray or drip irrigation on slope areas (otherwise too much water output by sprinklers will runoff, erode the slope and produce weak and unhealthy plants)
  • Plan for drip line irrigation on native plants (many natives do not like water sprayed on their leaves)
  • Plan to “match” irrigation heads (e.g., water output for a full circle head is twice the output for a half circle head) on each valve (zone or station)
  • Plan to direct water spray away from house siding, sidewalks, structures to avoid mold, water damages and erosion
  • See Watering section for more information.

Upgrade The Existing Irrigation System:

  • Plan what you want the garden to “become” before planning irrigation system changes.
  • With a new landscape plan, it is likely that new irrigation heads, perhaps more heads, or perhaps adapting to drip irrigation, etc. will need to be part of the plan.
  • In many cases the existing irrigation piping can be used. Often modifications to different sprinkler heads and to drip irrigation can be accomplished with the existing piping system.

Questions to ask before planning the irrigation system retrofit include:

  • Will the new plants block the water spray of the existing heads?
  • Will the new design get uniform coverage of water with the existing irrigation system?
  • Does the existing irrigation system spray water on the house, the street, fences, etc?
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Incentives for home energy efficiency

In 2010, many home energy-efficiency upgrades qualified for a tax credit of 30 percent of the cost of the project up to $1,500.

Insulating the attic Insulating your home is just one of the many energy-efficient retrofits eligible for tax credits.

“A tax credit is generally more valuable than an equivalent tax deduction because a tax credit reduces tax dollar-for-dollar, while a deduction only removes a percentage of the tax that is owed,” according to the Department of Energy’s (DOE) website.

Retrofits that seal your home to prevent heat loss or gain are eligible for tax credits. Certain types of metal and asphalt roofs also qualify for the tax credit. The tax credit for home-sealing projects applies to the cost of the equipment only – not the installation or labor costs.

  • Eligible write-offs: insulation, weather stripping and installing energy-efficient windows, window film, skylights and doors

Purchasing efficient heating and cooling equipment for your home may also qualify you for tax credits, and this tax credit covers both the product and labor costs.

  • Eligible write-offs: high-efficiency furnaces, boilers, air conditioners and water heaters, as well as fans for heating and cooling systems, biomass stoves and geothermal heat pumps

For both types of retrofits – home sealing and heating and cooling equipment, you’ll receive tax credits for projects carried out at only your primary residence that you own – not a new home or a rental (there are separate energy-efficiency tax credits for new homes). The new efficient equipment must be installed by Dec. 31, 2010. If you made any home energy improvements in 2009, your tax credit is capped at $1,500 for both 2009 and 2010.

Make sure to hold on to your receipts: You won’t need to submit them with your taxes, but keep them in your records in case of an audit. Visit Energy Star’s website to find eligible products and tax filing instructions.

Planning for 2011
There will be tax credits for energy-efficiency improvements you make on your home in 2011, but at lower levels.

“If you’re planning on making any energy-efficiency upgrades, we recommend you act now,” said Ronnie Kweller, spokesperson for the Alliance to Save Energy, a non-profit coalition of businesses, government and environmental groups that promotes energy efficiency. “Given the current federal budget situation, it’s unclear if tax credits are going to be extended next year, so don’t count on them. The 2011 tax credits are already a third of the value they were in the past years.”

Other Rebates and Rewards
Even if you didn’t purchase a product that qualifies for a federal tax credit, you may still be able to receive rebates and other incentives from your city, state or local utility. Call your local agencies for more information, and visit the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency.

Money for renewables

Did you install a renewable energy system on your home last year? Tax credits are not just available for the expensive and glamorous solar photovoltaic arrays and small wind energy systems. You can also receive tax credits for installing a solar hot water heater.

The tax credit for renewables is quite lucrative: 30 percent of the cost of the system with no cap. This credit applies to any home you may own – not just your primary residence – but does not apply to rentals. Visit theEnergy Star website to learn about system requirements and tax filing instructions.

Planning for 2011
The current tax credit for renewables expires on Dec. 31, 2016, so you have plenty of time to decide if one of these systems works for your home and budget.

Credits for green cars

2010 was your last chance to receive tax credits for hybrid vehicles: You had to buy or lease your hybrid by Dec. 31 to qualify. Only certain hybrids still qualified for tax credits last year, as tax credits were phased out once a car manufacturer sold 60,000 models. The popular Prius, for example, has not been eligible for a tax credit since 2008.

Certain hybrid cars, like Nissan’s 2011 Altima Hybrid, still qualified for tax credits in 2010. Photo: Nissan 

To receive the tax credit for Ford’s hybrids – $850 for the Fusion and Mercury Milan hybrids, for example – you had to make your purchase by March 31, 2010, before the company hit its 60,000-car threshold. GM and Nissan hybrids were eligible for tax credits at any date in 2010, such as $1,550 for the Chevy Malibu and $2,350 for Nissan’s Altima hybrid.

If you bought an electric vehicle (EV) in 2010 – either a plug-in hybrid or electric-battery car – you can receive a tax credit of up to $7,500, depending on the vehicle’s battery capacity.

Great news if you’re thinking of purchasing the new Nissan LEAF or Chevy Volt: The tax credit for EVs is available into 2011; the incentive will be phased out once a car company sells 200,000 of the vehicles.

Visit the DOE’s Fuel Economy website to search for your alternative-fuel vehicle by make, model and year, and see if your car is eligible for a tax credit. You’ll also be able to find tax filing instructions on this website. To learn about local and state incentives for alternative-fuel cars, check out the DOE’s Alternatives Fuels Data Center.

Deductions for donating

If you dropped off a bag of clothes at Goodwill or gave a set of dishes to St. Vincent de Paul last year, you can receive tax deductions for donating these used items in good condition to a charitable organization. Remember to request a donation receipt to keep in your files. Many organizations that operate secondhand stores allow you to determine the price of your donated goods.

For requirements and tax filing instructions, browse the Internal Revenue Service’s (IRS) guide to Charitable Contributions.

Other Savings from your state

Arizona gives residents up to $1,000 in tax credits for installing home rainwater and greywater collection systems to conserve water. Check with your state’s tax office to see if they offer any other green tax credits or deductions not listed in the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency or the DOE’sAlternatives Fuels Data Center. If installing a rainwater harvesting system sounds daunting, we’ve got you covered – check out our Budgeter’s Guide to Rainwater Harvesting.

* excerpt from: Article by Alexis Petru Published on March 14th, 2011.  See: http://earth911.com/news/2011/03/14/green-tax-credits-youre-missing/

 

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Sustainable flooring

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_flooring

Sustainable flooring is produced from sustainable materials (and by a sustainable process) that reduces demands on ecosystems during its life-cycle. This includes harvest, production, use and disposal. It is thought that sustainable flooring creates safer and healthier buildings and guarantees a future for traditional producers of renewable resources that many communities depend on. Several initiatives have led the charge to bring awareness of sustainable flooring as well as and healthy buildings (air quality).[1][2][3] Below are examples of available, though sometimes less well-known, eco-friendly flooringoptions.[4][5][6][7] The Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America recommends those with allergies to dust or other particulates choose flooring with smooth surfaces – such as hardwood, vinyl, linoleum tile or slate.

The Building for Energy and Environmental Sustainability (BEES) program of the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) [8] provides a one-stop source of life cycle assessment-based information about flooring options. Life cycle comparisons of flooring alternatives by research groups around the world consistently show bio-based flooring products to have lower environmental impacts than other types of flooring. The life cycle environmental impacts associated with producing and using flooring alternatives such as cork, linoleum, and solid wood are clearly lower than other alternatives. Wool carpeting and composite marble exhibit the greatest impacts, and impacts linked to typical carpeting used in residential structures are higher than those shown in the BEES system due to the use of a pad under the carpet layer.[9]

Wood

The development of life cycle assessment methodology in the early 1990s has shown the environmental advantages of wood and wood-based products.[10]

Wood is a unique and renewable material. Trees absorb carbon during their growing cycle, and this carbon remains stored in products like wood flooring during its service life, thus keeping it out of the atmosphere. At the end of its service life, wood can be reused (in which case the carbon continues to be stored in the wood) or used for fuel.[11]

A life cycle assessment of flooring materials made of solid wood, linoleum and vinyl found the wood flooring had lower energy use and carbon dioxide emissions. It also performed better in environmental impact categories such as resource use, environmental toxin emissions, air pollution emissions and waste generation.[12]

Solid wood products, particularly flooring, are often specified in environments where the occupants are known to have allergies to dust or other particulates. Wood itself is considered to be hypoallergenic; its smooth surfaces are easy to clean and prevent the buildup of particles that are common in soft finishes like carpet.[13]

These technological advances have made many types of hardwood floors easier to install. They can be ordered pre-finished so there is no need to finish or seal the floor before or after installation – they can be installed straight out of the box.[14]

Bamboo flooring

Bamboo flooring is made from a fast growing renewable timber (technically grass). It is natural anti-bacterial, water-resistant and extremely durable. DIYinstallation is easy, as bamboo flooring is available with tongue-and-groove technology familiar in hardwood/laminate alternatives. Bamboo flooring is often more expensive than laminate, though it is generally cheaper than traditional hardwood flooring. Some bamboo floors are less sustainable than others, as they contain the toxic substance formaldehyde (rather than natural-base adhesives).[15]

Cork Flooring

Cork flooring is made by removing the bark of the Cork Oak (Quercus Suber) without harming the tree (if harvested correctly); as such, it is a renewable and sustainable resource. It is naturally anti-microbial and has excellent insulation properties, ensuring minimal heat loss and comfortable warm walking surface. Cork is resilient and ‘springs back’ preventing imprints due to heavy traffic and furniture, it also provides excellent noise insulation. Cork is low involatile organic compounds (VOC) emissions, however it is important to check the finish applied. Cork is not suitable for bathrooms, as it absorbs moisture.[16][17]

Linoleum

Linoleum is made from dried and milled flax seeds mixed with other plant material (pine resins, wood flour, ground cork) with a jute backing, all completely natural materials which come from renewable sources and are 100% biodegradable. All by products and waste is milled and used. Linoleum does not fade, as the pigments are embedded in the structure. It is anti-static, repelling dirt, dust and other small particles, making it hypoallergenic – for this reason it is often used by people with respiratory issues (asthma, allergies). It is also fire-resistant and does not require additional fire-retardants finish.[18]

Rubber Flooring

Rubber flooring is made from a rubber tree, a 100% renewable resource. It is easy to install and maintain, is anti-static and provides effective sound insulation and vibration reduction. Rubber flooring is also resistant to fading and cigarette burns. Some rubber flooring is made from synthetic rubber, this is not a sustainable product.[19]

Natural and Recycled Carpet

There are carpets that are sustainable, using natural fibers such as sisal, wool, jute and coconut husk. It is also possible to have carpet made completely from recycled polyethylene terephthalate used for food/drink containers. This is sustainable and it reduces material sent to landfill; further it uses dyeing methods that are less polluting and require less energy than other flooring. This flooring is sustainable when used alongside eco-friendly adhesive as some products may have toxic finishes added (stain/fire proofing) that are not considered to be sustainable.[20]

Coconut Timber Flooring

Coconut timber is a hardwood substitute from coconut palm trees. Coconut palm wood flooring is cheaper than teak but the wood hardness is comparable to mahogany. Coconut palm wood is made from matured (60 to 80 years old) coconut palm trees that no longer bear fruits. Coconut trees can grow quickly within 5 to 6 years.

Excerpt from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_flooring

 

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The Making Home Affordable (MHA) Program is a critical part of the Obama Administration’s broad strategy to help homeowners avoid foreclosure, stabilize the country’s housing market, and improve the nation’s economy.

Homeowners can lower their monthly mortgage payments and get into more stable loans at today’s low rates. And for those homeowners for whom homeownership is no longer affordable or desirable, the program can provide a way out which avoids foreclosure. Additionally, in an effort to be responsive to the needs of today’s homeowners, there are also options for unemployed homeowners and homeowners who owe more than their homes are worth.

In February 2009, the Obama Administration introduced the Making Home Affordable Program, a plan to stabilize the housing market and help struggling homeowners get relief and avoid foreclosure. In March 2009, the Treasury Department (Treasury) issued uniform guidance for loan modifications across the mortgage industry and subsequently updated and expanded that guidance in a series of policy announcements.

The Making Home Affordable Program Handbook for Servicers of Non-GSE Mortgages (Handbook) is intended to provide a consolidated resource for programmatic guidance related to the MHA Program for mortgage loans that are not owned or guaranteed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac (Non-GSE Mortgages). Servicers of mortgage loans that are owned or guaranteed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac should refer to any relevant guidance issued by the applicable GSE. In addition to the applicable guidance in this Handbook, servicers of mortgage loans insured or guaranteed by a federal agency, such as the Federal Housing Administration or Rural Housing Service, should refer to any relevant guidance issued by the applicable agency.

For a deeper understanding of program rules and servicer guidelines, consult theMHA Handbook.

Homeowners Facing
Foreclosure

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